Comme des Garçons, the avant-garde fashion label founded by Japanese designer Rei Kawakubo in 1969, has become a global phenomenon, not just for its boundary-pushing designs but also for its innovative approach to retail. From its humble beginnings in Tokyo to its current status as a worldwide fashion powerhouse, Comme des Garçons has established a unique and unmistakable presence in major cities across the globe. This article explores the brand’s journey from a local Japanese label to an international retail force, examining how its stores have become cultural landmarks and drivers of fashion innovation in cities around the world.
The Tokyo Origins:
The story of Comme des Garçons’ global retail presence begins in Tokyo, where Rei Kawakubo opened her first store in 1975. Located in the trendy Aoyama district, this initial boutique set the tone for what would become the brand’s signature aesthetic: minimalist, avant-garde, and utterly distinctive. The Tokyo flagship store, redesigned several times over the years, remains a cornerstone of the brand’s retail identity. Its current incarnation, a striking glass and steel structure designed in collaboration with Future Systems architects, stands as a testament to Kawakubo’s enduring commitment to pushing the boundaries of both fashion and architectural design. The building’s curved glass facade and futuristic interior have made it a must-visit destination for fashion enthusiasts and architecture aficionados alike. Beyond the flagship, Comme des Garçons has maintained a strong presence in Tokyo with multiple locations, including specialized concept stores and collaborative spaces. These stores not only serve as retail outlets but also as cultural hubs, hosting art installations, fashion shows, and other events that blur the lines between commerce, art, and performance.
Expansion to Paris:
Comme des Garçons’ first significant step towards global expansion came in 1981 when Kawakubo presented her collection at Paris Fashion Week. This bold move, which shocked the fashion world with its unconventional designs and presentation, was soon followed by the opening of the brand’s first Paris store. Located in the heart of the city, this store introduced Parisian shoppers to Kawakubo’s unique vision, challenging traditional notions of French fashion and retail design. The Paris store quickly became a pilgrimage site for fashion insiders and avant-garde enthusiasts, cementing Comme des Garçons’ status as a global brand. Over the years, the brand has expanded its presence in Paris, opening additional locations that cater to different aspects of its diverse product line. Each store in Paris reflects a different facet of the Comme des Garçons aesthetic, from the more commercially accessible Play line to the high-concept designs of the main collection. The brand’s presence in Paris has been instrumental in bridging Eastern and Western fashion sensibilities, contributing to a more global and diverse fashion landscape.
Conquering the American Market:
Comme des Garçons’ expansion into the United States marked another crucial milestone in its global journey. The brand’s New York presence began in the 1980s, but it was the opening of the Chelsea store in 1999 that truly announced Comme des Garçons’ arrival on the American fashion scene. Designed in collaboration with Future Systems, the Chelsea store features a striking, tunnel-like interior that has become one of the most recognizable retail spaces in New York City. This store not only showcases the brand’s clothing but also serves as a physical manifestation of Kawakubo’s design philosophy, challenging visitors to rethink their expectations of what a fashion boutique can be. Beyond the Chelsea flagship, Comme des Garçons has established several other locations in New York, including a presence in Dover Street Market New York, which opened in 2013. This multi-brand concept store, curated by Kawakubo herself, has become a major destination for fashion-forward New Yorkers and visitors alike, offering a carefully selected mix of established and emerging designers alongside Comme des Garçons’ own lines.
A Hub of Retail Innovation:
Comme des Garçons’ presence in London has been characterized by innovation and experimentation, particularly with the launch of Dover Street Market in 2004. This groundbreaking retail concept, housed in a six-story building on Dover Street (and later relocated to a larger space on Haymarket), redefined the multi-brand retail experience. Dover Street Market London serves as a platform for both established and emerging designers, with each brand given the freedom to create their own unique space within the store. The result is a constantly evolving retail environment that feels more like an art installation than a traditional department store. The success of Dover Street Market in London led to the concept being replicated in other major cities around the world, further extending Comme des Garçons’ global influence. In addition to Dover Street Market, Comme des Garçons maintains several other retail locations in London, each offering a different aspect of the brand’s diverse product range. These stores have played a significant role in shaping London’s fashion retail landscape, encouraging other brands to take more risks with their store designs and product presentations.
A Global Retail Experiment:
One of Comme des Garçons’ most innovative contributions to global retail was the introduction of the Guerrilla Store concept in 2004. These temporary stores, designed to operate for only one year in unexpected locations, appeared in cities around the world, from Berlin to Singapore, Hong Kong to Stockholm. The Guerrilla Stores were characterized by their raw, unfinished aesthetics and their location in areas not typically associated with luxury fashion retail. This concept challenged traditional notions of retail permanence and luxury, bringing Comme des Garçons’ avant-garde sensibility to new markets in a way that was both accessible and exciting. While the official Guerrilla Store project has since concluded, its influence can still be felt in the proliferation of pop-up shops and temporary retail installations across the global fashion industry. The Guerrilla Store concept demonstrated Comme des Garçons’ ability to create buzz and excitement on a global scale, even in markets where it didn’t maintain a permanent retail presence.
Beyond Japan:
While Tokyo remains the spiritual home of Comme des Garçons, the brand has successfully expanded its presence across Asia. In Seoul, the brand’s flagship store in the upscale Cheongdam-dong area has become a landmark of avant-garde retail design. The building’s distinctive facade, featuring large circular windows, reflects Kawakubo’s interest in challenging conventional architectural forms. Inside, the store offers a comprehensive look at the Comme des Garçons universe, from its main line to its various diffusion brands. In Hong Kong, Comme des Garçons has maintained a strong presence for decades, with multiple locations catering to the city’s fashion-forward clientele. The opening of Dover Street Market Hong Kong in 2019 marked a new chapter in the brand’s relationship with the city, bringing its innovative multi-brand concept to one of Asia’s most important fashion markets. Similarly, the brand’s presence in Beijing and Shanghai has grown significantly in recent years, reflecting China’s increasing importance in the global luxury market. These stores not only serve local customers but also act as destinations for fashion tourists from across the region, further cementing Comme des Garçons’ status as a global brand.
A Global Retail Revolution:
The success of Dover Street Market in London led to a global expansion of the concept, with locations opening in Tokyo, New York, Singapore, Beijing, and Los Angeles. Each Dover Street Market is unique, reflecting the character of its host city while maintaining the core principles of creativity and constant renewal that define the Comme des Garçons ethos. These stores have become more than just retail spaces; they are cultural institutions that bring together fashion, art, and design in a way that few other retailers can match. The global network of Dover Street Markets has allowed Comme des Garçons to maintain a significant presence in key fashion capitals while also providing a platform for other designers and artists to showcase their work. This approach has positioned Comme des Garçons not just as a fashion brand, but as a curator and tastemaker on a global scale.
Digital Presence and E-commerce:
While Comme des Garçons is known for its innovative physical retail spaces, the brand has also embraced the digital realm as part of its global strategy. The Comme des Garçons website and e-commerce platform extend the brand’s reach far beyond its physical store locations, allowing customers from around the world to engage with and purchase its products. The brand’s digital presence reflects the same avant-garde aesthetic and conceptual approach found in its physical stores, with unconventional navigation systems and visually striking product presentations. This online presence has become increasingly important in recent years, allowing Comme des Garçons to maintain its connection with global customers even in times when physical retail has been challenging.
Collaborations and Pop-ups:
Comme des Garçons has further extended its global presence through strategic collaborations and pop-up installations in markets where it may not have permanent stores. Collaborations with brands like Nike, Converse, and Supreme have introduced Comme des Garçons to new audiences around the world, while pop-up installations in department stores and art galleries have allowed the brand to create temporary physical presences in new markets. These initiatives have helped to maintain the brand’s global relevance and appeal, ensuring that Comme des Garçons remains at the forefront of global fashion conversation.
The Future of Comme des Garçons’ Global Retail Presence:
As Comme des Garçons looks to the future, its global retail strategy continues to evolve. The brand has shown a remarkable ability to adapt to changing market conditions while staying true to its core values of innovation and creativity. Whether through the continued expansion of Dover Street Market, the development of new store concepts, or the exploration of emerging markets, Comme des Garçons is likely to remain a significant force in global fashion retail for years to come. The brand’s willingness to take risks and challenge conventions has set it apart in an increasingly crowded and competitive global market.
