COMME des GARÇONS – A Revolution in Fashion
Introduction
COMME des GARÇONS (often abbreviated as CdG) is more than just a fashion label—it’s a radical statement that challenges the boundaries of beauty, structure, and convention in the world of clothing. Founded by Japanese designer Rei Kawakubo in Tokyo in 1969, the brand has evolved from a local avant-garde movement into a global symbol of innovation, minimalism, and deconstruction. With its headquarters now based in Paris, COMME des GARÇONS has become a staple at international fashion weeks and a pioneer in redefining what fashion can be.
Origins and the Birth of a Movement
Rei Kawakubo, born in Tokyo in 1942, did not formally train in fashion. She studied fine arts and literature at Keio University and began working in advertising before transitioning to fashion. Her lack of formal education in fashion became a strength—it freed her from traditional constraints and encouraged a more conceptual approach.
In 1969, Kawakubo founded COMME des GARÇONS, meaning “like boys” in French—a name that instantly suggested androgyny and a break from conventional femininity. The label officially debuted in 1973 and quickly gained notoriety for its unconventional shapes, monochrome palette, and anti-fashion aesthetics.
Paris Debut and the Shockwave of 1981
COMME des GARÇONS made its Paris debut in 1981, sending a jolt through the traditional world of haute couture. The runway show featured models with disheveled hair, dark makeup, and asymmetrical, often torn garments in black, grey, and muted tones. Critics dubbed it “Hiroshima chic” because of its post-apocalyptic appearance. While the show polarized critics, it signaled a shift in global fashion.
Where French fashion celebrated glamour and opulence, Kawakubo offered imperfection and depth. This 1981 collection is now seen as one of the most pivotal moments in modern fashion history—introducing the idea that clothing could carry philosophical meaning, social commentary, and raw emotion.
The Philosophy Behind the Brand
At the heart of COMME des GARÇONS lies a philosophy that rejects conformity. Rei Kawakubo’s guiding principle has always been to “create something new that didn’t exist before.” She often speaks of the need to “design the void” or “create through absence,” manifesting in her pieces that resist conventional beauty, fit, and wearability.
Her designs challenge gender norms, celebrate flaws, and deconstruct traditional silhouettes. Jackets with three sleeves, dresses with holes, irregular hems, exaggerated shoulders—these aren’t mistakes; they are statements. They symbolize rebellion, individuality, and the refusal to compromise.
Deconstruction and the Rise of Anti-Fashion
Kawakubo is often credited with popularizing the concept of deconstruction in fashion. Long before it became a buzzword, she was creating garments that looked like they were coming apart—raw edges, exposed seams, and inside-out stitching. These garments were not about luxury or polish; they were about questioning form and function.
This aesthetic birthed what came to be known as “anti-fashion”—a movement rejecting trends and consumerist values. Kawakubo’s pieces were meant to provoke and puzzle. They weren’t designed to flatter the body but to engage the mind.
Collaborations and Sub-Brands
While COMME des GARÇONS is known for its high-art collections, the brand has also achieved commercial success through its many sub-labels and collaborations.
COMME des GARÇONS PLAY
Launched in 2002, PLAY is one of the most accessible and recognizable branches of the CdG empire. Known for its heart logo with eyes (created by artist Filip Pagowski), PLAY features casual basics like t-shirts, hoodies, and cardigans. It bridges the gap between avant-garde fashion and streetwear, appealing to a younger, broader audience.
COMME des GARÇONS Homme Plus
This menswear line allows Kawakubo to explore radical design ideas with masculine tailoring. It frequently features unusual proportions, layered looks, and futuristic fabrics—pushing the boundaries of traditional menswear.
Collaborations
COMME des GARÇONS has worked with some of the biggest brands in the world while maintaining its integrity. Collaborations include:
Nike: Avant-garde takes on classic silhouettes.
Converse: PLAY’s version of the Chuck Taylor made global waves.
Supreme: Merging high fashion with street culture.
Louis Vuitton: A rare partnership that brought luxury and deconstruction together.
These collaborations allowed COMME des GARÇONS to tap into new markets while maintaining its core ethos.
The Dover Street Market Concept
In 2004, Kawakubo and her husband Adrian Joffe launched Dover Street Market (DSM) in London. DSM is a multi-brand retail space that blends luxury fashion, streetwear, and art. Unlike traditional stores, DSM is more of an experience—it constantly reinvents its interior, offering installations, rare pieces, and curated collections from COMME des GARÇONS and other brands.
DSM now operates in major cities like New York, Tokyo, Los Angeles, and Beijing. It serves as a physical extension of Kawakubo’s philosophy: a place where fashion, art, and architecture collide.
Impact on the Fashion Industry
COMME des GARÇONS has had an enormous impact on designers, stylists, and fashion enthusiasts around the world. Many major designers—like Martin Margiela, Yohji Yamamoto, Ann Demeulemeester, and even Virgil Abloh—have cited Kawakubo as a key influence.
She showed the world that fashion doesn’t need to be wearable to be meaningful. She made it clear that a garment can be a sculpture, a critique, a question.
Gender, Identity, and Expression
One of the most radical contributions of COMME des GARÇONS is its challenge to gender norms. Long before gender-fluid fashion became mainstream, CdG offered clothing that was androgynous, oversized, and defiant of traditional male/female categories.
Her shows often cast models with unique features—breaking from the runway ideal of tall, skinny, and European. This inclusivity and refusal to conform opened doors for broader expressions of identity in fashion.
The Met Exhibition – “Art of the In-Between”
In 2017, the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute honored Rei Kawakubo with a solo exhibition titled “Rei Kawakubo/COMME des GARÇONS: Art of the In-Between.” It was only the second time the Met gave a living designer a solo show (the first being Yves Saint Laurent in 1983).
The exhibit showcased 140 pieces spanning her career and highlighted her obsession with duality: design/anti-design, high/low, past/future. The show solidified Kawakubo’s legacy as more than a designer—she is an artist.
COMME des GARÇONS in Streetwear Culture
While CdG originated as high fashion, its influence now extends into streetwear. Through its PLAY line, Converse collabs, and DSM stores, it has gained cult status among young creatives, skaters, rappers, and fashion-forward youth.
Brands like Off-White, A-COLD-WALL*, and Rick Owens owe part of their DNA to CdG’s defiant spirit. Even Kanye West and Pharrell Williams have worn COMME des GARÇONS—cementing its status in pop culture.
Sustainability and Ethical Practices
Unlike fast fashion giants, COMME des GARÇONS emphasizes quality over quantity. Many of its pieces are made in Japan and France with attention to craftsmanship and detail. The brand doesn’t mass-produce or chase trends—it creates collections on its own terms, minimizing waste and emphasizing longevity.
However, Kawakubo rarely discusses sustainability directly. For her, ethics lie in the value of ideas and the rejection of overconsumption. In a world drowning in disposable fashion, COMME des GARÇONS offers an alternative rooted in meaning and purpose.
The Legacy of Rei Kawakubo
Rei Kawakubo remains a mysterious and private figure. She rarely gives interviews, avoids public appearances, and lets her work speak for itself. Yet her influence is immeasurable. She taught the world that fashion can be a form of intellectual expression and emotional storytelling.
More than five decades after founding COMME des GARÇONS, she continues to surprise, provoke, and inspire. At 80+, she still designs collections that defy trends and predict the future.
Conclusion
COMME des GARÇONS is not just a clothing brand—it’s a philosophy, an art movement, and a rebellion against conformity. Through deconstruction, gender-fluid designs, and radical aesthetics, Rei Kawakubo has carved out a space where fashion is not about fitting in but standing out. Whether through the minimalist PLAY line or the avant-garde Homme Plus collections, CdG continues to redefine what fashion means in a complex, ever-changing world.
For those who dare to question the norm, COMME des GARÇONS remains the ultimate symbol of fearless creativity.https://comme-des-garcons.com.co/cdg-hoodie/
